Feather Edge (Close Board Fencing)
Basic Procedure4
Close board fencing is fencing which is made up of
Posts,
Arris rails, Gravel Board with feather edge boards
fixed vertically to the rails. The posts should ideally be 4 x 4 inch treated
timber, set into the ground in a hole 2 ft (600mm) deep and concreted with a
concrete mix.
The picture above shows both the inside of the
fence (left) and the outside (right) to demonstrate how the fence is assembled.
It is an accepted rule that the outside (good side) of the fence is shown to neighbours.
First
the posts are concreted into the ground, then the
gravel boards are fixed to the outside of the posts. Try and get the gravel
boards as level as possible and if your garden slopes you may need to
"step" the gravel board
Once the posts are secure, the rails need to positioned.
The
rails can be flush with the front of the posts, which will allow the feather
edged timbers to sit on the gravel board and be fixed easily for the length of
the fence. Some people like to set the gravel board & rails back so the
feather edged timbers sit a little inside the posts. The choice is yours.
The
rails can be screwed into the posts through the sides and supporting brackets
can be used to give extra strength. 3 inch number 8 screws are usually needed
for this, all timber should be treated.
Close board fencing can also be done using
proprietary concrete posts.
These posts have slots in them in which the rails can be inserted.
The first feather edge board can then be fixed on the outside of your fence. Use a spirit level to make sure this is absolutely upright.
Each subsequent board can then be fixed to the one
below it as shown above and to get the spacing right a small block can be used
to ensure an even overlap. The overlap should be at least 15mm. Nails should be
50mm lost head nails or 50mm ovals.
Featheredge (Close Board ) Fencing Featheredge fencing consists of
posts, post supports, arris
rails and brackets, and gravel boards,
plus featheredge boards.
The
arris rails are available in 2.4m lengths.
Although sections of fencing can be made up to this
length it may be considered better to work in 1.8m runs in particularly exposed
windy
areas so that there is a shorter span between posts.
The featheredge boarding
is available in 1.5,1.8, and 2.4m lengths packed in
bundles often, or sold singly. If a 1.2m high fence
should be required the 2.4m lengths are
cut in half. Similarly, if a 0.9m high fence is required, perhaps on top of
walling, 1.8m lengths are cut in half.
For
fences 1.5 metres high, three Arris
rails are required, for 1.8m high fences, four arris rails
are required and for a 2.4m high fence five.
The
fence posts should be tall enough to cope with the height of the gravel board (150mm)
and the featheredge boarding.
These
should be 100 x 100mm and need to set 600mm into the ground.
Unlike
panel fence construction which is done section by section, featheredge fencing is
done by erecting the main framework for
the entire run before the boarding is fitted.
Start
by marking the fence line.
Dig
your post hole, or use a purpose built post socket
at
the starting point. Fit a post.
Using
a length of arris rail as a guide to spacing, drive
in a second post socket and fit another post.
Connect
the two posts with arris rails and arris rail brackets. The rails should be set back from the
front face of the post by at least the thickness of the featheredge boarding.
You
should check that all your arris rails are exactly
the same length, and are fitted perfectly horizontally. They should be
positioned about 200mm from the top and bottom edges of the intended position
of the featheredge boards.
Fit
the first gravel board between the posts, the featheredge boarding can now be fitted.
For a 2.4 metre run you will require 32 pieces of boarding. For a 1.8
metre run you will require 24 pieces of boarding.
Each length
overlaps the previous one by a minimum of 19mm. Start by securing the first length
with it’s thick edge against the post at
one end of the
section. Use 38mm galvanised wire nails and ensure
that they go into the centre of the arris rail.
Since it can
be difficult to space out the lengths with equal overlaps and achieve a perfect
fit at the opposite end it is suggested that all the remaining pieces are
initially only lightly pinned to the top arris rail.
Adjustments
can then be made before the lengths are finally fixed.
At overlaps
the nails should be driven in through the thick feather-board edge to miss the
thin edge of the board behind, which could split.
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